Thailand, 12 Sep 2006 --

Andris and I are back on the mainland and back to the world of 1 baht/minute internet, so keep checking for pictures - they’ll be up shortly. 

The full moon festival was what one would expect - many crazy Europeans, a handful of Israelis and Aussies, and a few Americans drinking Sangsom whisky mixed with Red Bull out of buckets and then dancing until the sun comes up. The rumor out here is that the Red Bull contains some ingredients that are normally illegal, but after further investigation it turns out that while that may be true in France, it’s the same Red Bull we drink in the US. We stayed at the party until the tide went out (about 4) which made the walk back to our bungalow possible. The Red Bull made staying up until 4 possible:) 

After leaving Ko Pan Ngan, we headed to Surat Thani and then caught a bus to Krabi, which is known to be one of the premier climbing destinations in the world. Andris and I are happy to report that the climbing is absolutely amazing. The multipitches are the most intimidating thing I have ever seen - the rocks rise straight up out of the beach and are almost all climbable and bolted. All the while you are surrounded by breathtaking scenery of jungle and beach, and cheap food and even cheaper accomdations.

Unfortunately, we only had enough time and money on this visit for one solid day of climbing, and it turned out to be awesome. However, we got off to a rocky (ha ha) start. (Note: for the non-climbers, please pardon the use of unexplained climbing jargon.) We woke up around seven and headed to the rental place to get a whole set of gear for the day. It runs 1000 baht, which is just under $30. You get two pairs of climbing shoes, two harnesses, 12 quick-draws, three slings, two ATCs with locking biners, two chalk bags, a rope mat, and a climbing guide. As soon as we got packed, sat down, and decided on an awesome first climb, it started to rain. We ran back to our bungalow to wait it out. Meanwhile, we figured out an alternate if-it-doesn’t-stop-raining plan, which is to go to the other side of the beach where there is a sheltered area (Ton Sai roof) and do one of the highly recommended climbs called Stalagasaurs. I thought, what a great route! First of all, dinosaurs are cool. Second, it is a 6a (that’s a 5.10a to us Americans), which is perfect for us. Third, it is dry. The guide book describes it as being at the point closest to the water on the roof, and it was very easy to find. Andris was leading it so he started gearing up and I started flaking the rope on our mat. As I was flaking I noticed that the water was rising, and then some climber walked by and went “Better hurry up!” Right. So, Andris was ready to go, we did our safety checks, and he easily got to the first bolt and made the clip. At this point, I’m ankle deep in water and the rope is starting to get wet. I have a bright idea and ask him to clip into the bolt and get off belay so I can climb up on this ledge about 4 feet up. He agrees and I pickup the mat and rope and shove it up on to the ledge, and then climb up myself. Clearly, others have done this, as there was a place for me to clip in. I put Andris back on belay, tell him as much, and climb on! He stares at the route for a while, makes a few attempts and is looking kinda stumped. Just then, an Aussie walks by and asks me if I’m clipped in. Yes, I tell him. Then, he asks what Andris is climbing and I say Stalagasaurus. He then says “Is that the climb that was a 6a until the stalagtite fell off and now is a 6c? It just missed the belayer!” I think, this is starting to make sense. I relay this information, and Andris and I decide he should rap off of two nearby bolts and we’ll move on to greener pastures. After all, the tide is in and it is no longer raining. We went on to have a very productive climbing day, but it was a very interesting beginning. That’s the first time the tide has interfered with my climbing.

Next, we’re on to Hat Yai and then Malaysia!

Categories thailand